There’s something languidly glamorous about lakes. They are the still and tranquil antithesis of the sea’s wind-whipped volatility, offering little to do but glide out onto the water or laze beside it, each day as calm as the next. We tend to overlook lakes in favour of the beach, but as summer temperatures soar and over-tourism threatens some of the Med’s favoured destinations, these shimmering bodies of water – often rich in history and home to myriad wildlife species – are an increasingly attractive option.
. But there are many others – from Saimaa in Finland’s spectacular Lake District, to Ohrid in Macedonia and Bled and Bohinj in Slovenia – that offer the chance to explore lesser-known destinations, often in much cooler temperatures than their coastal neighbours.
Many are surrounded by mountains that send down cooling breezes; Hungary’s Lake Balaton averages a relaxing 27 degrees in high summer, while Lake Saimaa hovers around 20. Even the Italian Lakes are cooler than the coast, with temperatures averaging 30 degrees in July and August.
Of course, lakefront holidays are nothing new. Como was a stop on the Grand Tour more than 300 years ago, while it’s over two centuries since the first travellers arrived at Lake Geneva’s Evian-les-Bains to take its health-giving waters. Throughout the 19th century, wealthy city-dwellers built summer palazzos and mansions along the shores of every lake from Orta to Ohrid, with grande dame hotels springing up and small, waterfront villages blossoming into tourist resorts.
glamour, others reinvented as 21st-century spa resorts, with state-of-the-art sauna circuits, hydro-pools and holistic treatment programmes. There are plenty of simpler hotels too, with less-visited countries such as Germany and Slovenia offering superb spa hotels at extremely reasonable prices.
And lakes are a fantastic playground for families, offering boat trips and kayaking tours, paddleboarding and pedalos, many with non-tidal “beaches” that are ideal for younger swimmers. Most are encircled with walking and cycling trails, often blissfully flat, with the lake offering cooling dips whenever needed.
In some ways lakes are rather like gardening and Radio 4 – something we come to later in life, when the allure of busy beaches has begun to fade, and tranquillity and peace are what we really crave. Of course, the most famous lake resorts get busy too, but choose somewhere smaller, more under-the-radar and even in high summer, you may find a blissful, beautiful stretch of lakeshore all of your own.
Hotel Helikon, Lake Balaton, Hungary
Balaton is the largest freshwater lake in Central Europe, beloved of Hungarians but little-known to outside visitors. Its shoreline is dotted with resort towns and beachfront hotels, and the newly refurbished Helikon is a great introduction to the region, with an upgraded panoramic “sauna world” in the three-storey spa, revamped rooms and a tennis centre with six clay courts (coaching available).
There’s a daily programme of activities for children, from fishing and face-painting to quizzes and photo shoots, and a wide choice of watersports available, including kayaking, paddleboarding and sailing. Rooms are comfortable and functional rather than super-stylish, but all have at least a partial view of the lake – only bettered by the gorgeous waterfront vistas from the buffet restaurant below.
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Hotel Bohinj, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia
Bohinj might not match the better-known Lake Bled for glamour, but it is less crowded, and the dramatic scenery of the Julian Alps is equally breathtaking. Hotel Bohinj was completely renovated in 2021; the new design draws on the natural surroundings, with larch-wood panelling in the bedrooms fractured by a backlit silhouette of the Bohinj mountains.
An alfresco fireplace and comfy day beds make the most of the lake views. With average August temperatures of 22 degrees here, it’s rarely too hot to explore the cycling and walking trails knitted around the lake, while the Finnish sauna is perfect for a relaxing hour before hearty dinners of traditional Slovenian dishes.
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Villa e Palazzo Aminta, Lake Maggiore, Italy
Once a favourite of Richard Burton and Liz Taylor, Aminta oozes old school opulence: think ornate wall tapestries, lounges filled with velvet Chesterfields and rococo armchairs in dusky pinks and bold floral prints, and chandelier-lit bedrooms with glorious lake views. The two restaurants – Le Isole, focusing on classic Italian cuisine, and I Mori, offering more refined dining – both have outdoor terraces, surrounded by pristine gardens that wrap around the kidney-shaped pool.
Vinophiles will love the winery, where tastings of Italian and international wines are paired with local cheeses, while spa fans can book the thermal circuit, encompassing ice baths, a Turkish hammam, fragranced showers and a hydro-massage Geyser tub. The picturesque town of Stresa is just a mile and a half away.
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Hotel Royal, Evian-les Bains, Lake Geneva, France
Wellness holidays don’t come with more of a pedigree than the century-old Hotel Royal, originally designed as “the most beautiful hotel in Europe’’ to cater for wealthy visitors arriving in Evian to take to the waters. Its 21st century incarnation is equally wellness-focused; home to the only Evian spa in Europe, with a dedicated team that organises everything from yoga hikes to tandem paraglides and guided tours of Geneva or Annecy.
Golfers are equally well catered for with the Golf Academy and Champions Course, but the lake itself is the greatest playground, with private boat trips, catamaran sailing and a huge range of watersports, alongside a complimentary daily kids’ club for ages three and above. Twelve bars and restaurants mean never having to eat the same meal twice.
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B Bou Hotel La Vinuela & Spa, Andalucia, Spain
Twenty minutes’ drive inland from the high rises and hectic pace of the Costa del Sol is this traditionally designed Andalucian hotel on the tranquil La Vinuela Reservoir in the heart of the Axarquia Natural Park. Rooms are a warm mix of Andalusian design and Moorish touches – carved wooden headboards, ornate mirrors and striking tiled bathrooms – while the library, pool and flower-filled gardens all offer quiet, relaxing spaces.
The private spa circuit at the Mei spa includes fragranced showers and thermal areas, while cycling and horse riding trails are available around the reservoir. Dinners on the terrace focus on fish from nearby Puerto de la Caleta and meats from the surrounding farms.
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Brindos Lac & Chateau, Cote Basque, France
It’s all about watery pleasures at this hotel set on the shores of a small private lake: cocktails on the pontoon, a massage in the overwater spa, soaking in one of the four lake view hot tubs. The chateau dates back to the 15th century, was remodelled in the 1930s and still has a glitzy art deco feel, with a spectacular grand salon, wood-panelled Scottish cocktail bar and chandelier-decked restaurant (renowned for its dessert trolley) offering panoramic views.
Rooms are chic in cookie-and-cream hues, with 10 “lodge” rooms set over the lake, accessible only by boat, creating a wonderful feeling of seclusion. The spa offers classes from aqua gym to bolero and sacred spring dancing, with floating yoga during the summer months.
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Domaine des Etangs, Charente, France
There’s a genuine fairytale feel to this 14th-century castle estate, with seven lakes across its 2,500 acres. The main building – all turrets and gothic windows – has been restored using only local rock, with exposed brickwork and ceiling beams in the spacious bedrooms creating a delightful, rustic-luxe feel. Everything here is effortlessly stylish, from the library to the exquisite, locally (including on-site) sourced dishes served at Dyades, and the Moulin spa, housed in a former watermill.
Tennis, horse riding, cycling and hiking are all on offer, but there’s really nothing better than curling up on one of the sumptuous loungers and drifting quietly into the peace.
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Grand Hotel Toplice, Lake Bled, Slovenia
The private lakeside deck at the Toplice has to be one of the most relaxing places in Europe; the aquamarine waters of the lake stretching out to the small island of Otok, with the forested slopes of the Julian Alps rising behind. Rooms are classic and comfortable rather than particularly contemporary, most with stunning lake views, but most guests come for the spa Luisa, with its own thermal pool overlooking the lake.
The award-winning restaurant Julijana has a beautiful lakeside terrace for starlit suppers, and there are boats to take out on the lake from the hotel’s private pontoon.
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Read our full hotel review here.
Santa Clara Country Hotel, Lake Santa Clara , Portugal
Escape the crowded Algarve beaches for the quiet heart of the Alentejo region, where the Santa Clara dam – once Portugal’s biggest – sits above a great swathe of water, home to a few small settlements, dozens of bird species and a well-marked network of walking trails.
This is a place for those who want to explore a more undiscovered side of Portugal; the family-run hotel has just 19 rooms, simple but comfortable, with a good-sized pool and gardens that fan out to the lake beyond. The friendly staff can arrange bikes (free of charge) and recommend walking routes, with dinners that feel like traditional Portuguese home cooking and hearty buffet breakfasts.
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La Darbia, Lake Orta, Italy
Lake Orta is quieter and more tranquil than its glitzy neighbour, Maggiore, but just as beautiful. The dreamy island of San Guilio, home to a 13th-century basilica and convent, sits at its centre. La Darbia is a collection of 20 stylish apartments forged from a traditional farm estate with local stone; every one with a spectacular lake view.
Food is a big part of a stay here – breakfast baskets are delivered each morning; olive oil, wine and cheese tastings can be arranged along with cookery classes; La Cucina offers classic and lesser-known regional dishes on a terrace with sweeping views. This is a great choice for families, with a heated pool, play area and zipline and watersports available on the lake.
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Inex Olgica Hotel & Spa, Lake Ohrid, Macedonia
Europe’s oldest lake – dating back between three and five million years – straddles the mountainous border between Albania and Morth Macedonia, offering all the beauty of the Italian lakes with far less development. Specify a lake-view room to take advantage of the Inex’s location, set above the water on a wooded headland, and make time to visit the picturesque city of Ohrid, just a couple of miles away.
It is one of Europe’s oldest, once known as the Jerusalem of the Balkans, dotted with beautiful churches and an atmospheric old quarter. This isn’t a luxurious option, but for nature-lovers (Ohrid is the most bio-diverse lake in the world), walkers and those looking for an under-the-radar gem, it’s a great choice.
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Kuru Resort, Lake Saimaa, Finland
Finland is home to thousands of lakes, but Saimaa dwarfs them all, with the world’s longest lake coastline and more than 13,000 islands. In winter, Saimaa is frozen but in summer it’s a natural playground, with the adults-only Kuru resort offering a tranquil base. Just 20 villas are dotted through the pine forests that run down to the shoreline, with seal-spotting safaris, boat trips, e-bikes and paddleboarding all offering different ways to explore the wilderness.
Wellness – both physical and mental – is a large part of a stay at Kuru, with meditation, yoga and breathwork classes offered alongside a spa. Breakfasts are delivered to the villa each morning, while dinners are a six-course feast using naturally sourced local ingredients.
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Aldiola Country Resort, Lake Liscia, Italy
A world away (but just half an hour’s drive) from the busy resorts on Sardinia’s Costa Smeralda is the Aldiola, an idyllic hideaway surrounded by nothing but holm oak and cork trees, just above the tranquil shoreline of Lake Liscia. Drawing on the heritage of the surrounding Gallura region, rooms are furnished with locally made fabrics, ceramics and wooden furniture, with shady verandas and terraces that overlook the pristine lawns that wrap around the pool.
Days can be spent canoeing on the lake, visiting nearby archaeological sites in Arzachena, or hiking through the unspoilt countryside, before returning for traditional Sardinian dishes and wines in the hotel’s cosy restaurant.
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Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, Lake Como, Italy
villas and picturesque towns scattered along its meandering contours. Villa Serbelloni – the only five-star hotel in Bellagio, the lake’s loveliest village – celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2023.
This grande dame is filled with marble staircases, Murano glass, frescos and antique pieces in the ornate rooms. The cherry on the cake is direct lake access, with the hotel’s private beach enlarged for this summer, while the indoor and outdoor pools mean there’s always somewhere to snooze the afternoon away, whatever the weather. Dinners at Mistral are a highlight, with a more informal restaurant serving traditional Italian dishes.
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Seerose Resort & Spa, Meisterschwanden, Switzerland
The Seerose is two hotels in one; half traditional Swiss lakeside lodge, half contemporary design hotel. Guests can choose from Classic rooms – muted gold and cream décor with a traditional feel, Elements – with statement murals and glass-walled bathrooms, or Cocon, modelled on the wood-panelled boat houses dotted around the estate. The three restaurants continue the split-theme; Seerose offers classic Swiss-French cuisine, while Cocon and Samui-Thai both offer Thai or Thai-infused dishes.
The Asian theme continues in the spa, with hundreds of Buddhist temple bells hung above the entrance, Thai body and foot massages and Ytsara products from Bangkok. Beyond the hotel pool, the lake is swimmable, with hiking and cycling trails running alongside.
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Seehotel am Kaiserstrand, Lake Constance, Austria
The Seehotel has been a private residence, sanatorium and army barracks over the last century, before reopening in 2023 as a contemporary-styled wellness hotel. Traditional Austrian chintz has been replaced with clean lines and muted colours in the bright, airy rooms, with the same muted elegance running through the Vju restaurant (making the scarlet and hot-pink Red Bar something of a surprise).
The spa has multiple saunas and a warm indoor pool, while the charming town of Bregenz is a short drive away along a waterfront promenade. Best of all is the glass-walled Pavilion on the Lake, accessed by a pier, perfect for sunset drinks and dinner.
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Plavnica Eco Resort, Lake Skadar, Montenegro
(curly pelican).
Staff can organise boat trips, and kayaks and pedalos are available for exploring the lake independently, with dinners of locally caught fish and traditional Montenegrin dishes on offer in the Plavnica restaurant. Not a luxurious option, but a chance to experience Montenegrin hospitality and landscapes at their most unspoilt.
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Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, Lake Fuschl, Austria
The Rosewood opens on July 1, occupying a majestic location at the head of Lake Fuschl and housed in a lavishly converted 15th-century castle and estate that was once the grand hunting lodge and private residence of the Archbishop of Salzburg. Rooms and suites are plush without being overly opulent, with a clutch of houses and chalets dotted along the lakefront offering butler service and private saunas.
An outdoor infinity pool and lounge area make the most of the spectacular location, with the Asaya Spa offering fitness classes and a well-equipped gym alongside a varied menu of treatments. The concierge team are on hand to arrange everything from mindful nature walks to culinary trips to nearby mountain hut restaurants and visits to Salzburg.
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Seezeitlodge Hotel & Spa, Bostalsee, Germany
Popular with hikers, swimmers and cyclists, the Bostalsee is south-west Germany’s largest lake, with two beaches and summer temperatures hovering around the low to mid 20s. The Seezeitlodge is a sleek, modern hotel with crisp, unfussy bedrooms, polished wood floors and rattan furnishings, overlooking the lake or surrounding forest.
The Celtic themed spa offers everything from massages to flotation treatments and Thalgo facials, with a diverse activity programme encompassing everything from morning meditation to Nordic walking and gin tasting. Dinners in the Lumi restaurant centre on local, seasonal produce, with a firepit in the garden for starlit nightcaps.
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Passalacqua, Lake Como, Italy
This sister property to Grand Hotel Tremezzo was voted the best in the world in 2023, just a year after it opened. It’s a fabulous boutique hotel with sumptuous interiors fit for an empress, marrying classic Baroque elegance with fun designer fabrics in spectacular terraced gardens with pinch-me views. Sun yourself by the pool, unwind with a game of bocce, or glide across the lake on a boat – this is Lake Como at its most glamorous.
There are complimentary daily activities for guests, from gelato-making workshops and mixology classes to outdoor yoga and flower-arranging courses. The 24 rooms are spread out over three buildings: the main villa, the Palazz (housed in the former stables) and the four-bedroom Casa al Lago, with its own private gardens.
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